Lonely Planet - Dublin City Guide
GETTING STARTED
Dublin is a cinch in virtually every respect but budget, where it's often a pinch. The city is small, easy to get around and offers no greater challenge than struggling to be cultural the morning after the night before. That is, of course, if you don't care about the gridlock or the fact that nightclubs are calling chucking out time when their equivalents in southern climes are just getting going. Otherwise, just get stuck in.
WHEN TO GO
You don't like the weather? Wait 15 minutes. So goes the old refrain about a city where it's virtually impossible to predict the climate other than to make vague generalisations about it being warmer in summer than in winter – which are true, at least most of the time. From June to August, the days are reasonably warm and – most importantly – very long. At the height of summer you won't need to turn on lights until after 10pm. It is also peak tourist season, which means there are far more people pretty much everywhere and prices are at their highest.
Not surprisingly, most of the yearly festivals occur during these times so as to take advantage of the crowds and the more favourable weather. But then there was the 'summer' of 2007, when the thermometer barely rose above 15°C and it rained for 59 days in a row: the wettest since records began.
Spring and autumn are usually good times for a peek, although the city's popularity as a tourist destination can often blur the lines between mid- and high-season tourism. Still, you have a better chance of some peace and quiet and the weather can be surprisingly better in April and September than in mid-July – again, it's all part of the uncertainty principle.
Winters are dark, wet and cold, with December the wettest of all (an average 76mm of rainfall), but hey, it's Christmas and everyone is high-spirited; plus, you can enjoy indoor pleasures and you won't feel as guilty lounging in the pub. January is the only time the city's not really itself, when it's a little quiet and cranky after the festivities, and the days seem interminably gloomy.
FESTIVALS
Dubliners need to justify their propensity for celebrating stuff – ‘it's Wednesday!' just doesn't work for some – so the city's party planners have conveniently laid on an ever-changing menu of festivals and events for everyone to feel better about their hangovers.
January
NEW YEAR'S CELEBRATIONS
Experience the birth of another new year with a cheer among thousands of revellers at Dublin's iconic Christ Church Cathedral (p94).
ADVANCE PLANNING
From Easter to September, queues can be horrendous at popular attractions; arrive early. Most fee-paying sights offer discounts to students, the elderly, children and families. If you're serious about sightseeing, buy the Dublin Pass ( p234 ) as soon as you set foot in the airport – it'll give you a free ride on the Aircoach.
Two Weeks Before You Go
Advance purchase is a must if you want to take in a hit play at the Abbey (www.abbeytheatre.ie; see also p184 ) or the Gate (www.gate-theatre.ie; see also p186 ). A couple of weeks ahead should be plenty of time. Ditto if you want to watch a game at Croke Park ( p117 ), especially for the latter stages of the championship, which runs from April to September.
Three Days Before You Go
The very best and newest of Dublin's restaurants can be pretty tough to get a booking in for the first few months of business, but you shouldn't have any problems a couple of days in advance.
ONLY IN DUBLIN
All-Ireland Finals (836 3222; www.gaa.ie) - The climax of the year for fans of Gaelic games when the season's most successful county teams battle it out for the All-Ireland championships in hurling and football, on the second and fourth Sundays in September, respectively. The capital is swamped with fans from the competing counties, draped in their colours and swept along by their good-natured, family-oriented exuberance.
Bloomsday (878 8547; www.jamesjoyce.ie) - Every 16 June a bunch of weirdos wander around the city dressed in Edwardian gear, talking nonsense in dramatic tones. They're not mad – at least not clinically – they're only Bloomsdayers committed to commemorating James Joyce's epic Ulysses through readings, performances and re-created meals, including Leopold Bloom's famous breakfast of ‘kidneys with the faint scent of urine'. Yummy.
Christmas Dip at the Forty-Foot - Possibly the most hardcore hangover cure known to man, this event takes place at 11am on Christmas Day at a famous swimming spot below the Martello tower – made famous by James Joyce in Ulysses – in Sandycove, 9km from the centre of Dublin. A group of the very brave, and certifiably insane, plunge into the icy water and swim 20m to the rocks and back. With heads cleared after their frozen frolics, each heads home for Christmas lunch.
Handel's Messiah (Map p85 ; 677 2255; Neal's Music Hall, Fishamble St) - Messiah, Handel's most highly esteemed composition and one of the most renowned works in English sacred music, was performed for the first time at this site in today's Temple Bar on 13 April 1742, an event commemorated with a special gala-style performance each April.
Liffey Swim (833 2434) Since 1924, at summer's end (late August/early September), hundreds of swimmers – or lunatics, as they're colloquially known – traditionally dive into the Sniffy Liffey for a swim through 2km of mud and murk in the centre of Dublin, from Rory O'More Bridge to the Custom House. There are separate handicap races for men and women and it's fun to line the bank and watch the competitors trying not to swallow a drop. You can see it depicted in Jack B Yeats' famous Liffey Swim painting in the National Gallery ( p79 ).
February
JAMESON DUBLIN INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL
872 1122; www.dubliniff.com
Local flicks, arty international films and advance releases of mainstream movies make up the menu of the city's film festival, which runs over two weeks in late February (see the boxed text, p178 ).
SIX NATIONS RUGBY
647 3800; www.irishrugby.ie
Pending the reconstruction of the Lansdowne Road stadium, Ireland will play its home games at Croke Park, in the northern suburb of Drumcondra (see p117 ). The season runs from February to April.
March
ST PATRICK'S FESTIVAL
676 3205; www.stpatricksfestival.ie
The mother of all Irish festivals. Hundreds of thousands gather to ‘honour' St Patrick over four days around 17 March on city streets and in venues throughout the centre.
Events include the three-day Guinness Fleadh music festival in Temple Bar.
May
DUBLIN GAY THEATRE FESTIVAL
www.gaytheatre.ie
A fortnight devoted exclusively to gay theatre – plays by gay writers past and present that have a gay or gay-related theme.
HEINEKEN GREEN ENERGY FESTIVAL
0818 719 300; www.heinekenmusic.ie
A four-day festival that takes place in different venues around the city, with an open-air concert in the grounds of Dublin Castle as a highlight.
June
BUD RISING
0818 719 300; www.budweiser.ie
What began as a movable feast of music a few years ago at venues all over the city is now just a series of big gigs at Marlay Park from June to September.
CONVERGENCE FESTIVAL
674 6415; www.sustainable.ie; 15-19 Essex St
A 10-day green festival on sustainable living, with a diverse programme of workshops, exhibitions and children's activities in Temple Bar.
DIVERSIONS
677 2255; www.temple-bar.ie
Free outdoor music, children's and film events occur during weekends from June to September in Temple Bar's Meeting House Sq.
DUBLIN WRITERS FESTIVAL
www.dublinwritersfestival.com
Four-day literature festival attracting Irish and international writers to its readings, performances and talks.
MARDI GRAS
873 4932; www.dublinpride.org
Dublin's Gay Pride event has turned into a week-long festival of parties, workshops, readings and more parties at gay venues around town, although these are just to warm up for the parade that takes place – and takes over – on the last Saturday of June or the first Saturday of July.
WOMEN'S MINI-MARATHON
670 9461; www.womensminimarathon.ie
This 10km road race for charity (on the second Sunday in June) is the largest of its kind in the world and attracts around 40,000 runners each year.
July
OXEGEN
0818 719 300; www.oxegen.ie; Punchestown Racecourse, County Kildare
This fabulous music festival takes place over the July weekend closest to 12 July and manages to pack a few dozen heavyweight acts into its two-day line-up.
August
DUBLIN HORSE SHOW
Royal Dublin Society (RDS); 668 0866;
www.dublinhorseshow.com
The first week of August is when Ireland's horsey set trot down to the capital for the social highlight of the year. Particularly popular is the Aga Khan Cup, an international-class competition packed with often heart stopping excitement in which eight nations participate.
DUN LAOGHAIRE FESTIVAL OF WORLD CULTURES
230 1035; www.festivalofworldcultures.com
A colourful multicultural music, art and theatre festival featuring up to 200 different acts is held on the last weekend of August in the southern suburb of Dun Laoghaire.
ELECTRIC PICNIC
478 9093; www.electricpicnic.ie; Stradbally Castle, County Laois
Our favourite festival of all is in the grounds of Stradbally Castle, County Laois, about 80km southwest of Dublin; this two-day experience in August combines top class acts with organic food and a mind-bodysoul area. Let your good vibes flow.
SLANE FESTIVAL
041-982 4207; www.heinekenmusic.ie
Traditionally the biggest gig of the year, this August festival takes place in the grounds of Slane Castle, County Meath, about 45km northwest of Dublin, and usually features the biggest stars of the musical firmament: REM, Bruce Springsteen, the Stones and U2 have all played here.
September–October
DUBLIN FRINGE FESTIVAL
1850 374 643; www.fringefest.com
Our favourite theatre showcase precedes the main theatre festival (following) with 700 performers and 100 events – ranging from cutting edge to crap – taking place over three weeks. It's held in The Famous Spiegeltent, which has been erected in different positions in recent years; for more, see the boxed text, p185.
DUBLIN THEATRE FESTIVAL
677 8439; www.dublintheatrefestival.com
This two-week festival is Europe's largest and showcases the best of Irish and international productions at various locations around town. In tandem with the theatre festival is a children's season at the Ark (p86).
BULMER'S COMEDY FESTIVAL
679 3323; www.bulmerscomedy.ie
Big laughs over three weeks from an ever widening choice of comic talents, both known and unknown. It takes place at more than 20 venues throughout the city.
DUBLIN CITY MARATHON
677 8439; www.dublincitymarathon.ie
If you fancy a 42km (and a bit) running tour through the streets of the city on the last Monday of October, you'll have to register at least three weeks in advance. Otherwise, you can have a lie-in and watch the winner cross the finishing line on O'Connell St at around 10.30am.
DUBLIN ELECTRONIC ARTS FESTIVAL
DEAF; 872 8933; www.deafireland.com
A must for anyone into the cutting edge of music, DEAF showcases the work of some truly innovative musical – and visual – talents, both home-grown and international. From moog to movies, this is the future, now. Venues vary; check the website for details.
GREEN SYNERGY
0818 719 300; www.heinekenmusic.ie
A small five-day live music festival centred on the venues on Wexford and Camden Sts – Anseo, Crawdaddy, Tripod and the Village, among others.
SAMHAIN/ HALLOWE'EN
Tens of thousands take to the city streets on 31 October for a night-time parade, fireworks, street theatre, drinking and music in this traditional pagan festival celebrating the dead, end of the harvest and Celtic new year.
December
LEOPARDSTOWN RACES
289 3607; www.leopardstown.com
Blow your dough and your post-Christmas crankiness at this historic and hugely popular racing festival at one of Europe's loveliest courses. Races run from 26 to 30 December.
FUNDERLAND
Royal Dublin Society (RDS);
668 0866; www.rds.ie
Dublin's traditional funfair (from 26 December to 9 January) features all kinds of stomach-turning rides and arcade games, as well as hundreds of thousands of light bulbs and millions of reasons why the kids needn't be cooped up indoors.
Reproduced with permission from Dublin 7 by Fionn Davenport, Lonely Planet Publications, April 2008.
Lonely Planet Dublin City Guide by Fionn Davenport is published by Lonely Planet (paperback; £11.99). It is also available through lonelyplanet.com and all good booksellers.
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