Windhoek - Namibia
A Day in Windhoek ‐ Will Nichols
“For the authentic Windhoek experience, go out with a bag and be mugged at knife‐point!” declares the cheery sign by the exit of our hostel. Outside, another warns against parking on the street ‐ “Your car WILL be stolen!” Namibia’s capital city is home to just under 250,000 people, most of whom, it seems, are after your wallet.
This pervasive fear of crime is etched into the city’s architecture, with almost all buildings sporting some form of electric security fence or promising an armed response. But walking the streets of Windhoek, mingling with the smiling hordes of schoolchildren and the flamboyantly attired Herero women, there is no feeling of suppressed menace, and certainly nothing approaching the dystopian cities of South Africa. Of course, keeping valuables hidden and carrying only what money you need are both sensible precautions.
It’s tempting to ponder whether the rising crime statistics are a product of Windhoek’s large transient working population or simply a response to its reputation as one of the least interesting cities in Africa. Having been a centre for the Herero and subsequently Nama people, German colonists occupied Windhoek in 1885; seven years later the city became colonial capital of German South West Africa. Namibia was mandated to South African rule following World War 1, but following a drawn out struggle, achieved independence in 1990.
Sadly, the only signs of this colourful history are in the street names: an intriguing mix of Afrikaner, German and African names surround pockets of composers, scientists and African heroes
Sadly, the only signs of this colourful history are in the street names: an intriguing mix of Afrikaner, German and African names surround pockets of composers, scientists and African heroes, although Robert Mugabe Avenue may soon be rethought in the manner of Göringstrasse ‐ named not for Nazi potentate Hermann but his father, Heinrich, a former Governor General.
And while colonial rule has been ejected, South African superstores dominate the retail landscape, blurring Windhoek’s hazy persona further. The craft market on the corner of Independence Avenue and, another choice name this, Fidel Castro Street, is one of the few places left to buy any genuinely Namibian goods.
Independence Avenue carves through the centre of Windhoek and, given its status as the city’s focal point, is suitably bedecked with banks, tourist trap restaurants and all manner of assorted tat. However, for the tourist, minus bags and cameras, there is no better place to start a walking tour of the city’s few sights.
Start with a stroll through Zoo Park, where there is a well‐kept playground and open‐air theatre events. Moving through the park and up the steep Fidel Castro Avenue brings you face to face with the Christuskirche, Windhoek’s most recognisable landmark. The 24m spire perched on top of the hill towers above Windhoek’s skyline. Built in 1910, the combination of Art Nouveau and Gothic revival styles is more reminiscent of Amsterdam, but the sandstone, quarried just 30km away, reveals its Namibian heritage.
Beyond the church is Parliament gardens, which surrounds the Namibian Parliament building. There are regular tours of the Tintenpalast (‘Ink Palace’ ‐ a sly reference to the bureaucracy housed inside) on weekdays.
Wandering back towards Robert Mugabe Avenue and the Christuskirche will take you past the Alta Feste, a white fortress built by German Colonial forces in 1890. Today, it houses a rather humdrum museum befitting the free admission, although enthusiasts may enjoy the collection of machinery outside.
If all that walking has worked up an appetite, it would be foolish to leave Windhoek without sampling the famous Joe’s Beerhouse, Windhoek’s answer to Carnivore in Nairobi. A short taxi ride to the corner of Robert Mugabe and Nelson Mandela Avenues will see you whisked through a labyrinthine building, part ale house part restaurant. The copious hunting trophies and empty Jägermeister bottles hint at what this establishment does best ‐ meat and booze. Indeed, Mike Copeland, frequent visitor and author of guides to the country recommends that “vegetarians should stick to beer”. Ordering a Bushman’s Sosatie lands you a skewer of ostrich, zebra, oryx, crocodile and kudu; meaning many returning from safari get a chance to taste most of the animals in their photos. For those who haven’t left the city yet, this is another reminder that the true beauty of this country lies outside the city limits.
‐ William Nichols
