How to go to Egypt and not see the Pyramids
Go to Sharm el Sheik. Look to the right and see nothing but aggressive rocky desert, look to the left and discover the bright blue, fish-filled Red Sea with its coral reefs. Sharm is world renowned as a divers haven and since international flights began to arrive in its small military airport just a few years ago tourism has really taken off.
Booked just five days before leaving there was a rush to get bags packed and entry visas sorted out (£20 and a few hours wait at the Egyptian embassy). We flew in at sunset over magnificent views of the desert strangely reminiscent of Luke Skywalker's home planet. The airport provided a scene of rather comical confusion and passport officers with no time to waste, lots of shouting and stamps in passports later we waited outside for our transfer to the hotel in a dry, all encompassing, heat of about 42 degrees. Our hotel, situated what seemed like in the middle of nowhere (but actually just a short taxi ride to Sharm itself), is known for it’s private coral reef, ‘The Far Garden’.
As a first time snorkeler, I wasn’t sure what to expect and certainly didn’t think I would spend my holiday under water - after all, I was in Egypt and there were Pyramids and Sphinxes to see! However, one dip in the clear, blue water changed all that. Bright coral reefs and friendly black and yellow striped fish surrounded me and I was hooked!
As a first time snorkeler, I wasn’t sure what to expect and certainly didn’t think I would spend my holiday under water
Of course we didn’t just snorkel, there was a bumpy desert safari in a 4x4 jeep with a couple of large and sweaty Russians, and of course stopping on the way at an incredible, vibrant green oasis. Palm trees springing up in the middle of such a barren landscape for no apparent reason is one of the natural world’s wonders. This was followed by yet another bumpy ride, this time on camels, along the shore of the Red Sea. Not as uncomfortable as I had expected - although some of the boys on the trip didn’t agree! Evenings were spent in an outdoor café, smoking Shishas and drinking Kalkade under a magnificent, blacker-than-black, Arabic sky filled with an abundance of stars.
Finally, more snorkelling. The reefs around the Red Sea are rich with tropical fish, Leopard Rays 2 metres across, Angel fish and even the odd Whale Shark - all totally harmless and desperate to hang out with the divers!
Sharm was, as you may know, subject to terrorist attacks at the beginning of the summer season and you can sense the air of quiet desperation as shopkeepers and restaurant owners try and get you to buy something. The old market was eerily quiet, shopkeepers freely tell you that trade has suffered, and they have had to cut prices. However, as we drove past the hotel that had been subject to the attack we could see that rebuilding was well under way and surely with the amazing sights Sharm has to offer tourists won’t be able to stay away for long.
The contrast between desert and deep blue sea is so incredible, and the reefs so vibrant that you almost forget what else Egypt has to offer! Which is how you go to Egypt and not see the pyramids.
