Naples
“Napoli is a bit dodgy in places, but you’ll be just fine.”
I strolled out of my Roman hostel with that slight bit of encouragement from the keeper of the front desk and set out toward Termini Station to catch my train. I was continuing my Italian travels with a visit what must be the most chaotic city I’ve ever encountered.
Upon my arrival, I departed the most frightening metro upon which I have ever traveled. The smells, sounds, and sights of Napoli smacked me in the face immediately and I forget what silence even sounded like. Everyone seemed to be yelling at the same time whether on a cell phone, with neighbors, or in the middle of every street amid the honking of a dozen cars.
This city of nearly one million people threatens to run you over - not only with their strong words and shaking fists, but with every sort of vehicle as well. I believe this is the only place where locals high five each other based on how many pedestrians they have struck on any given day. And that’s just for the tourists they obliterate with their Vespas while barreling down the sidewalks!
But in this crazy place, with the constant threat of being made into a road traffic accident statistic, I met extraordinary people, saw incredible things and became empowered as a solo traveler. More importantly, the cuisine is forever etched in my mind.
I find that entering a hostel is either like finding a sanctuary or serves as a reminder of why you brought earplugs and got that tetanus shot before leaving home. Mine was a sanctuary. Backpack discarded and an amazing shower had, I approached the idea of food. Finding something incredible to eat in Naples should never be a hard choice! The Neapolitans claim the creation of one of the most important staples in any diet. Pizza!
The Neapolitans claim the creation of one of the most important staples in any diet. Pizza!
The friendly Aussie at the desk recommended a great spot where an entire pizza can be purchased for less than four Euros. At this I flew down the stairs and out into the street to find this bargain hunter’s paradise. I ended up visiting this establishment every day of my trip because the pizza made me want to cry - it was so delicious! The best part was watching it be assembled by experts and chatting with them in what few words we could speak of one another’s language. Most of them seem like adorable grandfather types - sent to personally delight you with their amazing art. Yes, the Grandpas of Pizza could always bring a smile to my face as they sent me back into the noise of the street with my dream come true - in a rectangular cardboard box!
Being a college grad, I realize that no pizza is complete without beer. Lucky for me, Naples offers up the most wonderful commodity - only steps from my hostel! She is know as the illustrious and revered, Beer Lady. One need merely approach her open window with a birdcage propped upon the sill announcing a quick: “Scusi” and she will materialise. My first experience with this enigma had me a bit nervous, especially since my Italian could be better delivered by my cat than my foolish backpacker self: “Buon Giorno. Una birra, per favore.” The hostess immediately beamed at me with a half toothless smile and walked to her fridge. “Due” she announced as she passed me the largest bottle of Peroni I had ever seen. With the cold bottle balancing in my hand I passed her the coin before she quickly yanked back my beverage. Not wanting to bring about a mafia induced raid and with piqued curiosity I waited patiently to see what would result from this occurrence.
A moment later she reappeared with my much anticipated elixir and returned it to my eager hands. I smiled gratefully and gave a few, “Grazies,” before turning back toward the street. She had popped the top.
Being a great home base for the exploration of Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast, as well as the city itself offering many museums and sights, Naples deserves a stop on any Italian itinerary. Whether out with friends or wandering solo, let yourself fall in love with this place and its amazing dining possibilities. Order your wine by the carafe and eat whole pizzas by yourself. It is the Neapolitan way.
The piazzas may not be sparkling like Florence and you may not find as many English speakers as you do in Rome, but Naples is a welcoming city full of friendly people wanting to share their culture with you. Now listen to the honking and get out of the gridlocked street and wind your way through this place. If you can make it here, you can make it anywhere.
Kelly Meadows
