Lone Adventures In Krakow
One week, a whole city at my fingertips and only me and my thoughts to contend with…marvellous! Krakow was my first European lone travelling adventure and what an adventure it was! The city is divided in two, with old town being the centre hub which the new city expands around. The noticeable difference between old and new is how the transport runs around the edges of the old town, keeping it traffic, and stress free.
Being small and relatively new to the whole ‘go it alone' travelling experience, I did briefly doubt my choice of city. Surely it would be easier to start my adventures in a city slightly less daunting…but then who wants easy? These fears were quickly forgotten however when I arrived and two chatty Krakowian students saw me safe onto the tram I needed to get to my hostel. From there on, my experience was an eye-opener, but a safe one.
I enjoy the freedom travelling alone gives you, to aimlessly amble along the streets, to sit in a coffee shop at your leisure, with no demands on your time…bliss. I am free to be a tourist, also a native. I can choose to walk as though I have a purpose, or stand and stare at the yellow brick building.
Deciding what to do with my time was both a pleasure and a chore. I found it hard to step out of my organized mind when I have no specific destination or ties to follow, but when I did the enchantment of travelling alone took hold of me and life was great – if not a little daunting. With a wealth of history, art and culture I rarely found myself at a loss of things to do, even though I was on a particularly tight budget. The city welcomes visitors and although there are many tours and excursions to embark on, the same things can be explored just as easily and a lot cheaper, off your own back.
Tucked away off the main square, this inviting tavern became my local evening haunt. Sitting among Poles and listening to their language, I was amazed at how quickly I felt comfortable in this unknown place.
Luckily my visit was off-season and I was able to avoid a lot of the mass tourist trade and explore the city at my own pace. My first port of call was the much boasted about Wzgorze Wawelskie (Wawel Hill), home to the royal castle and a huge proportion of Krakow's history. Krakowians really have reason to boast about this. Open land stretches out towards the main gateway into the castle and once inside, you can peruse the cathedral and royal tombs before wandering out into an overwhelming courtyard surrounded on all sides by the inner walls of the castle. The history that surrounds this site in particular allows the wandering tourist access to easily imagine how this place was initially used, for the Polish royalty holding their masked balls. I was immediately transported back in time to view the spectacle of the court jester performing for the king who chuckled merrily alongside his queen, enjoying the good times of ancient Poland.
Leaving my organized mind at the hostel I decided to catch a local bus out of the city to the Salt Mines. Salt mines…all I can say is I must have got swept along in the tourist trail and wandered around salty caves for three hours!!! Not really the culture enriching experience I was hoping for. However, I was feeling rather smug with myself at finding my own way there for more than three times cheaper than the ‘official' tours were going for. The bus I caught had the added bonus of free Polish radio, a bit of damp so you don't get too comfy and miss your stop (you wouldn't find that kind of consideration on a organised tour!) and sitting amongst Poles I gained a free scenic tour of the towns along the bus route (I had the window seat…)
The evenings did leave a little less option for entertainment however. The centre at night is predominantly big bars and clubs, which when alone can be as dull as staring at the eggshell walls of the hostel. After the first couple of evening trying to find somewhere which was not massively over crowded I stumbled across a cosy, dimly lit, late night coffee shop come bar, home to the most amazing melted hot chocolate there can be. Tucked away off the main square, this inviting tavern became my local evening haunt. Sitting among Poles and listening to their foreign speech I was amazed at how quickly I felt comfortable in this unknown place. The nice thing about not knowing the language that is spoken around you is everything becomes poetry. What you hear is no longer words with in depth meanings and undertones but simple sounds that harmonise with each other, the basics of language.
A visit to Ashzavitz offers a massive insight into Polish history, I could try and describe often-overwhelming sense of loss and sheer scale of the camps but I doubt my words could fulfil this demand. My visit coincided with a particularly grey day, which was ultimately fitting for the circumstance. I would advise going on a guided tour (26zlt) as the tour guides often have personal ties to the camps and a wealth of knowledge.
Top Krakowian Recommendations:
The Corner Hostel – (Sienna Street) Amazingly friendly and cheerful environment, with a complimentary brekky comprised of a lot more than a stale roll and jam. Also free tea and coffee available all day. Situated very close to the station, and just on the outskirts of old town this hostel seems to attract a nice variety of older and young travellers. If you get to know the staff, they are more than willing to take you out to see Krakow by night!
Bar Vega – This place truly is great for the veggies (and meaties too). If you have become bored with boiling up noodles which have as much taste as a piece of bark, for £2.50 you can choose a plate of salads, pastas, rice, soup etc that will keep you going when exploring the hidden depths to the city.
A Cup of Pure Melted Hot Chocolate – Need I say more?
Sunday Flea Market – There are a few to choose from in the city, but my personal favourite was in Kalimertz. A maze of different stalls selling anything from fruit and veg to antique photos from the war.
Zanimer – A short coach ride takes you out of the city to the mountains of Poland. Apart from the amazing landscape and photo opportunities Zanimer is one of Poland's biggest ski resorts.
- Abbi Mason
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