World’s Most Dangerous Road
Why the flip would you ride down the world’s most dangerous road? Do you think it’s a bit of fun, a bit of sport, to ride past spots where buses have plunged off the side of the mountain, past crosses marking where other cyclists have died? These are just a couple of the thoughs running through my mind, along with: “why did you bother eating this morning?”, as I sat on my bike, atop a mountain just outside La Paz, Bolivia. I was about to descend 36,000 metres, over 64km ‐ down a road that’s also known as ‐ the world’s most dangerous road, and death road. Hmm.
The road, built in the 1930s by Paraguayan prisoners of war, connects the region known as the Yungas to the Bolivian capital city. Before a new by‐pass was built in 2006, 200‐300 people died on this stretch of road every year, prompting the Inter American Development Bank to christen it as the world's most dangerous road. Even with the by‐pass, the road remains perilous. In May, one month before I did the ride, a 21‐year‐old English backpacker plunged 70 metres to his death. My guide, Ben, was the one who had to abseil down to get the body.
So after making an offering to the goddess of nature Pachamama, by pouring a 90% alcoholic drink onto our bikes, the earth and our tongues, it was time to start cycling. What a rush. It was pure downhill adrenaline, reaching speeds of nearly 60km per hour on an insanely narrow road. On your right, a sheer rock wall and on your left, the earth itself opens up before you. There is no margin for error on the often rocky, loosely pebbled road as you try and ignore the incredible scenery of snow‐capped mountains, the lush and steaming Amazonian jungle and as pointed out by our tour guide Ben, the house on the right, which was once home to Nazi fugitive Klaus Barbie, the Gestapo Butcher of Lyon.
Another thing ‐ don’t take any drugs with you (it’s a legitimate suggestion considering it’s Bolivia) because you have to go through a drug check‐point on your way down. Why the hell is there a drug check‐point in the middle of nowhere? Again, it’s Bolivia.
Even though I was scared to death most of the way down, it was the most exhilarating thing I’ve ever done and I didn’t die. As I sat in the animal sanctuary stop off with a beer in one hand and a spider monkey twisting its tail around the other, I felt I had truly earned the alcohol. Also I got a free shirt with a sexy woman on the back saying ‐ Let’s Ride, which totally made it worth doing!
‐ Tammy Mills
Fact Box
When: Don’t try this during South America’s rainy season because the road becomes too dangerous. The best time to go is between March and mid December.
Where: You can find tour companies to do the ride in La Paz or you can go directly through your hostel. Gravity and Velocity are the top companies.
How Much: It’s best to fork over the big bucks for this one because you get what you pay for and you don’t want to do the ride on dodgy bikes. Gravity will take you for around 68 Euros, while Velocity is around 50‐60 Euro mark.
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