Washington D.C.
There is a feel to Washington, quite unlike any other city. Perhaps it's the power the city projects, as the capital of capitals. Perhaps it's the diverse collection of people who scurry through its crowded arteries, drawn together by some mysterious force. Perhaps every third person works for the CIA. I may not know quite what it is, but any visitor can feel its effect. Where else do people go for a morning jog past 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue?
Can any other city match Washington's world perspective? As you walk down Embassy Row you encounter such a profusion of different flags that you could almost be at an international carnival. While Washington cannot match the art of New York or the glamour of Los Angeles, it has a unique ability to exhibit a melting pot of Americana.
While Washington cannot match the art of New York or the glamour of Los Angeles, it has a unique ability to exhibit a melting pot of Americana.
Like most tourists, I found myself standing on the steps of the Lincoln Memorial. I had just reread the Gettysburg Address and somehow inspired into contemplation, was staring out across the Mall - trying to imagine the swamp that had once existed on the land now dominated by the Washington National Monument and Capitol Hill.
Did the first Europeans to make it this far up Chesapeake Bay really only see a stagnating swamp? What would they say if they could see the grandeur that now inhabits this stretch of land?
Beginning with the White House was a good idea. As of 2001 you can no longer tour it but arriving in the morning I could walk right up to the gates - an area cordoned off by noon. With heightened security everywhere your chances of seeing the President gardening are much reduced, but it's still exciting to catch a glance of the most sought after address in the USA. If you do want to get close to the workings of government a visit to Congress will get you into both chambers - close enough to smell the sweat of the nervous young congressmen. Even if you don't listen to any of the speeches (believe me you won't to) a walk around the complex is certainly worthwhile. Just remember that you'll need a passport to get in.
With over 136 million items the Smithsonian can seem a daunting prospect and there's just no way to see it all. With that in mind I headed first to the Air and Space museum - home to the original Wright Brothers plane, lumps of moon rock and a replica of just about every spaceship man has made. More a museum of pioneers than science, it's an invaluable stop to those with even just a passing interest.
Over the Potomac river lies District Arlington - once the other half of the Constitution's stipulated hundred square miles of federal territory for the capital. Arlington was retroceded to Virginia in 1847. Make no mistake though - Arlington is Virginia through and through. Home to some of the most famous Virginians, modern day tourists can still visit the homes of Robert E. Lee and George Washington, although the latter's Mount Vernon residence and its stunning views across the river are best seen by coach.
This distinctly Virginian suburb of Washington is marked by the presence of both the Pentagon and Arlington National Cemetery. A Metro ride from central Washington takes you to John F. Kennedy's grave where you can also be part of the surreal experience that is standing on the threshold of R. E. Lee's home, overlooking the capital he fought to be free of for four years. Incidentally this is the only national memorial to a man who fought against the United States of America.
If you want to delve into small town Washington then a trip to old Georgetown is highly rewarding. Gone are the imposing imperial buildings and the throngs of hurried civil servants. Here life seems to take on a slower pace and you'll find locals sitting by the harbour side chatting the afternoon away. Boats glide happily through serene waters and a stroll up Wisconsin Avenue will leave you feeling like you've stepped back into the nineteenth century.
Alternatively head up to Dupont Circle to find the lively evening scene. Indulge yourself with the best pizza money can buy at California Pizza Kitchen or head to the high quality Mexican Grill before hitting one of the many bars around.
You may head to Washington with the preconception that it's just another big east coast city but you'll leave knowing it's much more. Both hectic and laid back, grandiose and small, imposing and friendly - Washington is an enigmatic mix, drawing inspiration from the big northern cities while at the same time retaining its southern character.
- James Garrett
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