Spotlight on Tennessee
Trans‐Atlantic Travel Spotlight: Chattanooga
More often than not we disregard backpacking trips to the U.S.A as too far, too expensive and too main‐stream to be worth the detour from the all too familiar, gap‐year route through Europe, Asia and South America. That’s why after a heavy stint of hands on research, I’m serving up a tantalising treat of a travel spot light – on a Deep South destination that until now, has gone relatively un‐noticed on the international travel radar. Ladies and gentlemen, I present to you Chattanooga – Tennessee.
Story Highlights
- Where on Earth is Chattanooga?
- Why Head to Deepest, Darkest South America?
- Top Outdoor Attractions
- Cultural Bombardments
- Panda Time
- All American Food
- Need to Know
- A Final Thought
Where on Earth is Chattanooga?
If you’re a child of the eighties cast your mind back to the Jive Bunny re‐mix album that somehow managed to find a home in every car’s cassette player ‐ on every family holiday you ever took. On this tape you may remember a track entitled Chattanooga Choo Choo. Well this little Glen Miller ditty heralds back to a time when the majority of trains passed through the south eastern Tennessee city of Chattanooga, en route to the south via Atlanta. The inspirational locomotive in question looks uncannily like the cartoon steamers featured in the Looney Tunes sketches, and can be seen in all its glory at the old Chattanooga train station.
This twenty four acre site is now not only a railway heritage museum but also a hotel where guests can actually reside in the railway carriages of yester‐year, fully decked out with Wi‐fi, wide screen TV’s and en‐suite bathrooms. Funnily enough there’s still plenty of overhead storage room for all your luggage needs, but be careful when you check out as the bags in the compartments above you may have shifted during transit, and may fall on you or other passengers. In the Chattanooga Choo Choo Holiday Inn you’ll find the theme tune on loop in the lobby and if you’re lucky enough to be in town in 2009, you’ll be treated to all kinds of locomotive treats in celebration of the station’s centennial year.
Why Head to Deepest, Darkest South America?
First of all if you think of Tennessee as red neck, racist central you should take the trip simply to kick this preconceived prejudice to the curve. Secondly and most importantly, the overwhelming attraction is that there’s simply nowhere in Europe or indeed either hemisphere that measures up to the cultural and demographic combination on offer in this south eastern state. The main pull for Indie travellers passing through town has to be the outdoor adventure scene, which combines attractions on land, air and water.
Top Outdoor Attractions
Kayaking along the Tennessee River in the early hours as the sun shimmers over the horizon and slices through the cold misty air, just above the warm river water - is something that’s guaranteed to get the feel good endorphins pumping. Creating your own streamlined, kayak shaped tunnel in the mist as you head towards the wild life riddled McMillan Island and away from the thousand tonne industrial barges, also counts as exercise! Golden Eagles circle above, herons skim the water and otters dodge and dive along the banks. It’s almost akin to the joy you got from watching The Wind In The Willows as a kid, but without the slightly disturbing, childhood trauma that was the talking frog.
Of the many bridges traversing the Tennessee River, the Walnut Bridge has a particular appeal for adrenaline addicts with a fifty‐foot wall, boasting ten ropes and over 30 distinct climbing routes. Safely strapped into a harness, the primary function of which was to publicise bottom overhang and crotch clumping, I stared up at thedaunting limestone slabs. Experts were busy shimmying up the man made rock face, chalk dust billowing in their wakes like there was nothing easier in the world. Faced with the alternative of trying out a new craze called boulder jumping ‐ where no safety harnesses were involved whatsoever, I eagerly began what was to be a short lived, 30 foot ascent before gravity had its wicked way.
For the land loving outdoor enthusiasts the 16 mile bike ride along the sprawling $120 million river walk, is a far easier alternative. For the past three years the pathway has linked the recently regenerated downtown district to the mighty sight of the Chickamauga Dam, with some typically impressive, all American scenery in between. Giant creeks are conquered by huge industrial growths, which in turn are countered by conservation areas and high speed, aquarium owned catamarans. If however you still need an adrenalin fix then take your fine selves hang gliding from Lookout Mountain Flight Park. You can take to the skies in tandem with an expert, train on the: “bunny hill” or if you’re a pro, immerse yourselves in the heavens solo, amidst some spectacular scenery.
Cultural Bombardments
Lookout Mountain: Another Chattanooga attraction that you can’t miss, visually and by overwhelming local recommendation, is the towering might of Look Out Mountain. This peak is part of the Cascade Mountain Range which extends into the surrounding states and boasts a whole host of internal and external attractions. A real treat found deep within the mountain itself is the multi coloured, Ruby Falls. This 145‐foot waterfall is 1120 feet below the mountain’s surface and is enhanced by an awe inspiring light show of blues, greens and reds, not to mention the collection of rock formations with comical overtones. Weight Watchers Lane, The Leaning Tower and the Donkey’s Ass are just a few of the highlighted stalagmite and stalactite formations, popular with the snap happy travellers.
To access the mountain you can come at it by bike, but if you don’t want to arrive drenched in sweat and cursing profusely, you can jump on the less exertive Incline Railway. This is one of the steepest incline railways in the world with an extreme angle of 72.7 degrees, stretched over one mile. The gradient is slightly dizzying at first but the Peter Pan flying sensation when the trees clear to reveal the view through the glass ceiling, is well worth a few waves of nausea. Atop of Lookout Mountain you will find that world travellers not only flock to the waterfall, but also the stunning war memorials at the Chickamauga‐Chattanooga National Military Park and the fairytale wonders of Rock City Gardens.
From this boulder strewn menagerie you can make like the legions of Japanese tourists and get a great photo of seven states, all in one shot. Specifically you can capture Tennessee, Georgia, Alabama, South Carolina, North Carolina, Kentucky and Virginia. Awe aside it’s also wise to save some film for the pedestrian suspension bridge, the gut clenching challenge of the Needle’s Eye Passage and the 400 plant species that in Autumn, create a pallet of colour to rival that of the most ambitious artist.
The Waterfront: Every year the river bank of downtown Chattanooga plays host to The Head of the Hooch Regatta, the largest rowing event in the states. In 2008 1357 boats competed for a place in history and the American Olympic Team also came to town, to strut their stuff and challenge the up and coming, Lycra clad college athletes to a series of friendly competitions. The college hopefuls were good but needless to say, they weren’t quite good enough to beat Michael Phelps.
The Bluff View Art District: Away from the water and its plethora of outdoor fun times, you can scratch your culture craving itches at the Bluff View Art District, located on a raised plateau, overlooking the valley. The district is a blend of wholesome American eateries, coffee shops guaranteed to satisfy even the most ‘caffeinated’ urbanites and art exhibitions that mix classic taste with eerie, modern installations. In the Hunter Museum of American Art you can enjoy pieces like the little known artistic offerings of Samuel F.B. Morse ‐ the same Morse behind the code.
You’ll find his portrait of Mrs George Watson hanging over a fireplace in the lower gallery, but if you really want to see something special, check out the modern wing. The scary, superbly life like mannequin of a woman in the corner, collecting coins for the American Heart Foundation, is guaranteed to make you look twice. Beware however if you get too close when checking for breath, you’ll set off an alarm that causes several dozen museum attendants to materialise out of thin air.
Panda Time
Sincere apologies for the play on the MC Hammer lyric but now that your attention is drawn, allow me to introduce a nifty little zoo at Warner Park. This is just what you need when you reach the point of culturally informed saturation! The major attractions here are the Red Pandas, or more specifically, Nigalya and his female companions, Daisy and Zoë. There are only two and a half thousand Red Pandas left in the wild so sanctuaries like this are a rare treat. Even rarer is being part of a feeding session where you’ll find that tasty red grapes are on the pandas’ preferred menu. Female feeders should however beware that if they’re lucky enough to serve these creatures their favourite treat, they shouldn’t enter the enclosure in open toed footwear, sporting red nail polish. To hungry pandas your toe tops will resemble a collection of tasty treats and they will tickle them with their tiny paws until, after a fair few minutes, it becomes clear they’re not edible.
All American Food
Porkers: This is an authentic American eatery where black coffee comes with every order, plaid shirts are standard issue and the vibe is wholesome. Try the grit, biscuit, gravy, pancakes and honey fried ‐ crispy bacon for breakfast and you won’t have to eat again for days. This place is a favourite with George Bush – as you can tell by the framed pictures of his visits adorning the walls.
The Sunday Markets: This is a great spot for a light lunch between noon and 5pm. It’s on Carter Street and boasts 150 stalls selling fresh produce, great snacks and hand crafted gifts, all against a background of live Bluegrass music and $1 a minute back massages.
212 Market Restaurant: Head here for a real meal with a refreshing organic edge. The pan fried green tomatoes are tasty to say the least, the ever changing soup blends never disappoint and the home made, coffee ice cream will keep you wired for hours.
Bars: Try the Market Street Tavern for live country music, pool and every beer under the sun. Alternatively get an unadulterated taste of the local night life at The Big Chill. Here you’ll find cheap beer, a blatant disregard for the smoking ban, Britney Spears look‐alikes and some of the cheesiest music around.
Need to Know
Vital Visa Information: As of January 12, 2009 getting into the states is going to change dramatically – all because of the Electronic System for Travel Authorization (ESTA). Basically this means all nationals and citizens of Visa Waiver Program countries will need to secure travel authorization before going to the U.S. Authorization needs to be done online through an application administered by the Department of Homeland Security. The process doesn’t charge a fee so don’t be duped by the websites that have sprung up to offer advice and guidance about ESTA – all for a handsome sum. These sites are not endorsed by the American Government and they won’t speed up your application. For more details and a helpful guide in 16 different languages, visit www.cbp.gov/esta
Outdoor Fun: All outdoor activities, including cycling, climbing, kayaking and hang gliding can be organised through one company in Chattanooga. Have a look at outdoorchattanooga.com for the best seasonal deals. If you prefer to do your own thing on a bike, then you can rent one from 112 Tremont Street. It’s $15 for a day and $25 overnight. rivercitybikes.com will tell you more.
City Transport: When it comes to getting around the city make the most of the free electric shuttle bus service which runs every five minutes between the Chattanooga Choo Choo Hotel and the Tennessee Aquarium. The bus stops at every block in between the two, giving you great access to everything in the downtown area.
Packages: americaasyoulikeit.com offers a five night package to Chattanooga including return flights on US Airways from Gatwick via Charlotte to Chattanooga, five days fully inclusive economy car hire and five nights room only accommodation at the Holiday Inn Choo Choo – all from £685 per person. Call 0044 14624 40784 for a free information pack or visit chattanoogafun.com
A Final Thought
The inescapable impression as you leave Chattanooga is that this corner of America is changing into something that’s a far cry from its insular, racially segregated and conservative past. Children from every walk of life cycle the streets chanting mantras from the weekly President Elect transmissions on YouTube and a new surge of environmental awareness has now engulfed the city ‐ once named and shamed as the dirtiest in America. The past aside, Chattanooga is a truly unspoilt destination, ripe for the picking with sports, sights and culture to boot. At £300 for a return ticket to nearby Atlanta from London, it’s not too painful for your credit‐crunched wallet either.
‐ Rob Savage
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