Summertime in Berlin
Berliners are often viewed by the rest of Germany as a pretty grumpy bunch. Not known for their friendliness, their gruff and brusque reputation has developed over centuries, most probably thanks to the long winters that grip the city for six months of the year. What the rest of Germany don’t realise – or choose to ignore – is that if you want to see Berliners at their best you need to see them when the sun is shining. From the moment the sun appears in late spring, the cafés dust off their outdoor furniture, and the green leaves on the trees soften Berlin’s often grey urban cityscape, people begin to walk around with a smile on their face, treating each other more gently and pleasantly as the brutal cold of the Berlin winter fades into memory.
Beer Gardens and Bathing
So there is no better time to visit Berlin than the summertime, and for many people this means only one thing: Beer Gardens. Berlin is littered with these German institutions, but there are two that stand out above all others. The Prater Garten on Kastanienallee, just north of the centre, is Berlin’s oldest and you will find all different types of people sitting in the shade of the chestnut trees, sipping on Prater Pils and chowing down on beer garden staples such as Bratwurst, corn on the cob, and potato and pasta salads. The other great spot for open-air drinking is the Cafe am Neuen See which is located on a small lake inside Berlin’s version of Central Park: the Tiergarten.
It’s not uncommon for Berlin’s summer temperatures to get as high as 36 Degrees Celsius , but rather than head for the air-conditioned shopping mall or cinema, the Berliners have found a more natural and healthy way to cool off - jump into lakes. There are at least 15 places for lake swimming within the city limits but the closest to the centre are the Weißer See and the Orankesee, in the east of Berlin. The most famous is the Strandbad Wannsee, down in the south west. The beach is almost a mile long and 80km wide, and on busy summer weekends it can host up to 50,000 sun-worshippers.
Boats and Bikes
Indeed, one of the striking features of Berlin is the water. There are numerous rivers, canals and lakes within the city limits, and a boat tour is a great way to see the city from a different angle. In the centre of Berlin numerous tour companies offer open-topped trips ranging from a couple of hours to day long excursions, complete with the staples of Berlin cuisine – beer and sausage.
If you want to explore the city on two wheels, there are a number of companies that offer bike tours to all the main sights in the city. Or you could even rent a bike yourself and go where you fancy. Most of Berlin is great for cycling, with specially marked bicycle paths and route signs in green throughout the city. The Daddy of all bicycle routes is the one which follows the path of the Berlin Wall...all 160km (100 miles) of it. For a shorter stretch, the stage between Mauerpark and the East Side Gallery passes through the heart of the city and past many of Berlin’s major sights. Also it’s a more comfortable length at 16km (10 miles).
Barbecues and the Big Screen
The ultimate way to spend a summer afternoon and evening as a Berliner means only one thing - a barbecue in the park. There are special grilling spots throughout the city, most notably in the Tiergarten, the Montbijoupark and the Mauerpark. You can get single use disposable grills from petrol stations, and stock up on sausages and steaks at the supermarket. In said supermarkets you can also find half a litre of excellent German beer for as little as fifty cents.
Another fine way to pass a summer evening is at the open-air cinemas, which offer entertainment on the big screen, under the stars. Unfortunately, the Germans being German, dub most movies into their native tongue. There are however exceptions and if you head to the Freiluftkino Kreuzberg you can catch all films in their original language, including American. Just make the whole thing a little bit more German by replacing the popcorn with yet another cold beer. Along with cars and sausages, it’s what the Germans do best.
- Paul Scraton
The Circus Hostel Paul works for the Circus Hostel on Weinbergsweg in Berlin-Mitte, just down the road from the good folks at the St Christopher’s Berlin. The Circus Hostel offers dorms, private rooms and apartments, with a street-level café for lazy summertime afternoons, as well as the basement Goldman’s Bar - a meeting point for both backpackers and Berliners, and home to live music, DJ sets, and the infamous Saturday night Karaoke Klub. The Circus Hostel, Weinbergsweg 1a, Berlin-Mitte – www.circus-berlin.de
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